27 September - 8 November, 2025
Atelier Nandini Sawhny.Aisha Jameel along with its kaarigars Syed Anisur Rahman, Sheikh Abu Bakkar, Syed Amir Ali, Syed Nazir Ali, Sheikh Raju, and Syed Ershad Ali have created this beautiful collection of embroidered textiles.
The flowering tree of life is deeply rooted in Indian mythology; Kalpvriksha - the tree that fulfils wishes. The painted tree of life was a precursor to the embroidered version. The treatment of the embroideries was greatly influenced by crewel work.
The original palampores were hand painted and mordant dyed Kalamkaris. We have used the painted palampores as inspiration for our embroideries. The base fabric is screen printed with the pattern and then embroidered.
The stitches and interpretation of these embroideries are our own, combined with the skill of the kaarigars embroidering them, who bring their own originality to each artwork. We attempt to showcase here the mix of taankas or stitches used to create texture, depth and dimension. The stitch is a fine chain stitch done with a combination of a needle and a leather worker's hooked awl called the Aari - a technique developed by the Mochi embroidery done in Kutch in Gujarat.
The motifs we see in these beautiful embroideries have influences of Persian, Chinese and European art in their treatment. The embroideries were initially created for a western audience and hence in a subtle colour palette. The colours are muted as compared to the vibrant colours we see in other Indian textiles. The base fabric used earlier ranged from fine cottons to linens, using silk embroidery threads. Today, we use cotton and blended yarns to create the ombre look of the leaves and flowers, with the colours blending together smoothly.